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Restaurant and dining guide

I write about The Modern with a tinge of sadness and a tear in my eye. For this week we have just discovered that the Urbis (at which The Modern sits atop of) is to now house Preston's football museum.

A sad day for Manchester indeed, especially after all the amazing exhibitions that Urbis has put on recently. Where else can you go and see an exhibition of UK Hip Hop, as well as a retrospective of north west television as the digital switchover begins?

For those not in the know, or in Manchester, The Modern is the huge ski jump-shaped building on the northern tip of the city, opposite The Printworks. Designed by architect Ian Simpson, this iconic building was erected in 2002 and was part of a wider regeneration around Exchange Square. It means a lot to to me as this was the time my husband moved to Manchester and we started exploring the city together.

Anyway, back to the food. The Modern - which has been open on floors five and six for about two years - has long been one of my favourite bars in this city.

Many people say it hasn't got a busy buzzy atmosphere, but they should have checked it out a few Saturdays ago when I tried to take my mum and sister. It was standing room only. Admittedly it can be a bit quiet sometimes - but that's the whole point for me!

It's a very contemporary elegant space, with fabulous bar staff and newspapers to read. A bit of headspace amidst the chaos of life.

I ate at the Modern when it first opened and was blown away, and have since been pleased to find that it can be hard to get a table at short notice at weekends (good for them, not for me BTW).

This year's Manchester Food and Drink Festival Best Restaurant award went to The Modern, which was good to see it get recognition.

The restaurant's appeal is that is serves contemporary (or even modern?!) food in a casual, completely unstuffy way in great surroundings. If only they'd take off that film from the glass windows that obscures the view of the city centre.

I find The Modern always has an inspiring menu - a blend of simplicity and creativity makes me go 'Mmmmm' to almost everything. We started in the bar with a champagne cocktail for me and a Singapore Sling to remind the other half of his travelling days.

From the starters, I was tempted by the pumpkin and sage soup, but found the potted mushroom, pickled walnuts and wholemeal toast (£5.50) calling to me because it sounded like a proper autumnal dish. Although incredibly tasty, the buttery mixture became a bit rich which meant I couldn't finish my plate.

Not a problem across the table, for the Pressed terrine of braised rabbit, pork and smoked bacon (£5.50) was a chunky number for a hungry fella, with little pickled onions and toast on the side.

The main menu was stuffed full of warming 'proper food' dishes, and the mutton hotpot (£16.50) was a traditional dish with a drop of finesse. I'd forgotten the dish included an oyster, so I was slightly confused by the out-of-context seafood. The pickled Heritage beetroot was an inspired accompaniment, and I'm always glad to see this under-rated vegetable getting back on menus.

The roasted Yorkshire venison (£18.50) was soft and pink, and set off with the spiced red cabbage and creamed potato, along with juniper and thyme sauce to add that berry kick to the rich game meat. A side accompaniment of faggot was really strong tasting, and for me didn't add to the dish.

The dessert menu has some lovely classics, with a really nice 'Modern' twist, such as the Dark chocolate and malt whisky tart, hazelnut and caramel ice cream (£5), but the other half was tempted by the apple crumble, with a nice traditional mix of Cox Pippins, Bramley applies and blackberries (£5).

In my opinion, The Modern remains one of Manchester's premier dining spots, in a category that is sadly lacking for a city as good as this. The staff are always charming, helpful and most importantly don't faff around you, they just let you eat.

Let's just hope next time I go, I don't have to share my favourite cocktail space with lots of football-scarf wearing people!

The Modern, Floors 5 and 6 of Urbis, Cathedral Gardens, Manchester, M4 3BG
T: 0161 605 8282
W: www.themodernmcr.co.uk