Circle Club is somewhat of a schizophrenic haunt. Nestled in the Barton Arcade, between Deansgate and St Anne’s Square, Circle describes itself as the only private members club in Manchester, yet it is open to the public at lunchtimes. It works hard to provide everything a member could ask for; a stylised and exclusive cocktail bar and club by night, a restaurant for lunchtimes and a laidback location for business meetings and networking for those within the creative and media industries. Let’s call it a multi-faceted venue.
It’s a good few years since I was last in Circle. In fact, the last time I was there I was an employee, working behind the bar and serving cocktails to a clientele of business men, soap stars, footballers and gorgeous girls. This time I was there as a lunchtime diner trying out the menu compiled by their new head chef, Neil Lorenzo.
I was surprised to see that the entire club had been given a facelift. If it wasn’t for the entrance being in the same place, and the staircase down to the reception maintaining the old Circle style, I wouldn’t believe this was the same place. The bar, kitchen and toilets had all moved, transforming the interior completely. The old glass tables and black leather had been replaced by antique-painted wood and plush upholstered, circular booths. The wallpaper, singed around the edges, featured a print of 50’s glamour girls. I like its look, this has to be a one-off design.
Being a weekday lunchtime, the thought of a three course meal seemed a little over bearing. As it was, the menu didn’t even have a starter section (although starter portions are available upon request) so my companion and I decided to stick with mains and pudding. The menu offers a mouth-watering section of salads, pasta, meat and fish, and left us spoilt for choice. Dishes ranged from Euro classics such as steak and chips or roasted Mediterranean vegetable salad, through to ultra personalised lobster ravioli or pig trotter patties. The nice thing about Circle being a members’ club is that the staff are very personable and happy to provide assistance and advice on such matters of deliberation.
My companion opted for a Selection of Fresh Market Fish, poached in a tomato and chilli broth with saffron cous cous (£9.50), whilst I chose a variation on an old favourite of mine, Slow-braised Oxtail Steamed Pudding, served with caramelised vegetables, squash fondant and buttery sage mash (£10.50). The fish dish combined mussels and a variety of white fish. The broth was quite a thin, fragrant and mildly hot liquor, giving the dish a soupy feel, with all the substance of a mains dish. The pudding was exceptional. Puddings can be quite heavy, but the suet pasty was quite light and easy to eat whilst the oxtail contributed a fantastic flavour.
So I’m told desserts and pastries are a speciality of Neil Lorenzo’s. His menu is full of really traditional sweets that you’d expect to find in a small French boulangerie. We were encouraged, however, to sample the Chocolate Torte with vanilla sauce (£4.50). This was sound advice. It wasn’t overly rich and sickly; rather it was sweet, gentle and more-ish, the vanilla sauce, a perfect accompaniment.
All in all, I was impressed. I only hope that Circle Club keeps its restaurant open to the public, Lorenzo’s talents should be free for all to sample, although it’s a strong selling point for membership.
13 Barton Arcade,
Barton Square,
Manchester,
M3 2BB
0161 288 8118
www.thecircleclub.com
Matt Johnson
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